Today was our first Amalfi Coast walk. We started in the village of Termini (meaning”end,” as in the end of the Sorrento penninsula) and finished in the charming harbor town of Mare della Lobre. Along the way, we passed through hilly paths, citrus groves, stone terraces and expansive farm lands growing everything from olives and figs to fava beans and, of course, lemons. I couldn’t get over the wonderful smell of the orange blossoms in the air—it was so fresh and peaceful.
Sorrento village walk
Location: Coastal villages and farmlands around Sorrento
Length: About 4.5 miles of walking, over a distance that measures 3 miles from point A to point B. Since much of the walk was on zig-zagging paths and indirect rural roads, it was not a straight shot, but rather a more winding, scenic route.
Time: 3.5 hours, including a few stops for coffee, water or bathrooms along the way.
Terrain: The terrain started out tougher on an uphill dirt road, which soon reached the paved path that we followed for the majority of the walk. There were hilly spots and rocky steps, but overall the walk was on the leisurely side. Since it has been a rainy spring in Sorrento, there were some particularly slick moss-covered rocks, which called for careful footing.
Best view: The path wove throughout lemon groves—many of which poked out through private courtyards. The gate to one of the lemon gardens had been left open, so I took a peek inside and wandered into a tightly packed lemon tree farm, which had a few Roman-looking statues and a beautiful vine-wrapped arched ceiling. It was beautiful!
Favorite moment: Near the end, when Mare della Labra came into view and I could make out the tiny harbor dotted with colorful boats. I also quite enjoyed the first sip of birra I had with my panini at our post-walk lunch at Angelo’s Bar, a laid-back restaurant overlooking the harbor.
Back in Sorrento for a free afternoon, I set out with a few travelers to check out the many boutiques (and pick up one of the linen scarves that are so popular here along the Amalfi Coast). Then it was off to our evening optional excursion, a farmhouse dinner.
I can’t express how wonderful this evening was. The farm, called an agriturismo, was deep in olive country, a short drive up from Sorrento. Everything they served—and there was a lot!—was grown right on the farm and tasted absolutely delicious. The setting was a little house overflowing with hanging plants, fragrant herbs and fresh flowers at every turn.
We started the night with a glass of prosecco and some bruschetta before feasting on an antipasto of fresh cheeses, meats, vegetable soup, cheese soufflé and fried cod. And that was just the beginning—from there, we had a pasta course and a main course of either fish or chicken, followed by the most delicious lemon almond cake I could have ever imagined. We sipped local wines throughout and finished the night with the city’s signature limoncello. It was a very special setting and the meal was unforgettable.
Katie is making her way around the Amalfi Coast on foot. Follow along as she blogs about her tour!